Happy Halloween Vintage Style

I had a great Halloween blog prepared, but I managed to delete it when I was making room on my laptop. I haven't time to redo it, as I am preparing for my daughter's birthday Halloween party - a big deal for us Australians, let me tell you!  So instead, here is are a few vintage Halloween postcard images (some of which are available to buy, just click the links)

Happy Halloween!

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Party photos soon and lots more images on tumblr!

Deb xxx

Quadracycles

A little journey from military fashion to more bicycles.

Here is unusual attire for the army, bowler hat and lounge suit!  The photo is actually of inventor F.R. Simms demonstrating his Simms Motor Scout Armoured Quadricycle in 1899.  He constructed the vehicle by mounting a Maxim machine gun on the front wheels bar of a French De Dion-Bouton Quadracycle, and adding an iron shield in front of the vehicle for the driver/gunner's protection.

A quadcycle is basically a bicycle with four wheels, one at each corner, ridden by one or, more often, more people.  They were invented around the same time as two-wheeled bicycles , and the earliest recorded pedal-powered quadracycle was exhibited in 1853 at the Exhibition of the Industry of All Nations World's Fair held in New York City.

Side by side Quadracycles were more stable at low speeds than bicycles and in-line tandems and it was harder to fall off.   Early designs used foot levers, but in 1885 the Coventry Rotary Quadracycle was introduced which used conventional bicycle-style rotary pedals instead. It was developed from a similar tricycle design and featured tandem seating for two. 

Smartly dressed couple seated on an 1886-model quadracycle for two. The South Portico of the White House, Washington, D.C., in the background.c 1886

In 1888 The Rudge Quadracycle was designed, and it  is described as the first modern practical four-wheeler. It had much lighter construction than earlier models, seated three riders in tandem and was steered by levers from the front seat. 

c. 1888

Quadracycles were popular with fire and postal services.

c. 1890

there is a beautiful example of a fireman's quadracycle at he Brisbane Museum, which actually seats four, and has an attached trailer for the hose.

The Quadracycle of course quickly morphed into a horseless carriage, such as this one.

1894 Balzar

And Henry Fords first car in 1896.

c.1896

Here's a close up of the engine. Isn't it beautiful?!

Ford Quadracycle engine

And the Quadracycle in all it's glory.

Ford Quadracycle 

I can't imagine how expensive one would be to buy now, but here is a replica someone in Indiana made. it sold for a mere $5,000!

Ford Quadracycle replica source

Lovely, don't you think?

Deb xx

Victorian Military Bicycle Uniforms

With bicycles so popular in the late 19th century, in Europe, the United States and Australia, it was inevitable the military would find a use for them. Bicycles were easier to care for than horses, required no fuel or food, a small storage space and little maintenance. They were quiet, and riders could be easily trained. Soldiers previously on foot could travel faster and carry more with a cycle.  Bicycle units were formed at the end of the 19th century by all European armies and the US armed forces, and to some extent took over from the mounted infantry.

Cycle company at Bury St Edmonds, Suffolk

Folding bicycles were developed from about 1895 by Morel and Geraud, and the French army tested about 25 of these bikes. The patent for the folding bike was sold to a consortium of Peugeot, Michelin, and the French army and they took over production of the bike in 1899.

In 1896 in the United States, an extensive experimentation on bicycle units was carried out by a 1st Lieutenant Moss, of the Twenty-fifth United States Infantry Regiment (one of the racially segregated units of the United States Army known as Buffalo Soldiers). The 25th Infantry U.S. Army Bicycle Corps set out across the country on bicycles from Fort Missoula, Montana to several different locations with their greatest trip covering 1,900 miles to St. Louis, Missouri, returning to Missoula by train.  Here they are at Minerva Terrace, Yellowstone National Park, 1897. 

Photos by Frank Jay Haynes Source

You can read more about this epic trip here.

 The first known use of the bicycle in combat occurred during the Jameson Raid in 1896, in what was to become South Africa, in which cyclists carried messages.

Soldier during the 2nd Boer War source

Soldiers with early folding cycles

Three years later in the Second Boer War, military cyclists were used primarily as scouts and messengers, although several raids were conducted by cycle-mounted infantry on both sides.

Simon Dussault folding bicycle c. 1895

One unit patrolled railroad lines on specially constructed tandem bicycles that were fixed to the rails.  Mikael Pedersen had developed a two-rider tandem version of his Pedersen bicycle in about 1898 that weighed 24 pounds, and a four-rider, or "quad", that weighed 64 pounds, and earlier in 1895 Julien Simon and Victor Dussault, both of Paris, France, patented  a folding tandem bicycle which they described a regular folding bike that could be converted into a folding tandem with the addition of another frame and connecting parts.

Other early folding bikes were the Faun Folding Cycle produced in England in 1896 and the Dwyer Folding Bicycle made in Connecticut , designed by Michael B. Ryan, which was sold to the military as well as the public.  This photo is from an article about the Dwyer folding bicycle in the Scientific American magazine dated March 13, 1897 showing a soldier demonstrating the folding operation of the bike.

The uniforms for cyclist soldiers tended to have loose pants and gaiters, no matter which army they were fighting for.  Very similar to this Sardinian uniform from 1859, which I had to include because I just love it!

Deb xx

Victorian Nostaglia & Steampunk

I have come to a realisation.

I love Steampunk.

What is "Steampunk?" you may ask.

Basically Steampunk is Victorian science-fiction-fantasy, or the past that never was.  Old done in a new way or vice-versa - Victorian outfits with a modern twist, or mobile phones made of leather and brass. Steampunk takes it's name from the time of Steam power, and the punk genre of being different and questioning everything. Why do we have to have boring clothes made in China or plastic everything and sameness?  Why can't we have beauty and fun, traditional materials like leather, timber, brass and copper, items that can be tinkered with and not just thrown away when broken or uncool.  With Steampunk, you have the best things of the Victorian era, without the hardships, racism, sexism and child labour. It's Victorian nostalgia in a way - looking at the past through rose coloured glasses.
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Put these on baby!

If you love vintage, you're part steampunk already.  I have been Seampunk for years and just never knew it had a name.  My first house (twenty years ago now) was built in 1910, with high ceilings and  lots of timber and we renovated it with brass light fittings and fans, and had brown velvet sofas and Persian rugs.  I so miss it, but hoped in Queensland I would have an old timber Queenslander - I am still waiting. One day I may have something like this!

Brooklyn House, Fraser Coast QLDc. 1890  source

Probably not, but while I am waiting I shall continue to research the Victorian and Edwardian eras, and Steampunk.  As well as this blog I have started a tumblr page, which explores Steampunk in all it's forms, with photos and quotes.  It's called Brass Butterflies and the link is in the side bar.

As well as being a little bit 'Steamy' in my daily life, I am working on some costume ideas for a Steamfest next August in Ipswich, Queensland, so I'll jot about then too.  Any input is welcome!  And if you are in Queensland next August, think about attending.........

Go to the website for more information.

Farewell for now, tumblr awaits.

Deb xx

The Air Ship - a musical farce comedy from 1898

Distracted again, this time by these delightful posters for The Air Ship, a musical comedy by JM Gaites from 1898.

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Below is part of an article which appeared in the January 18, 1899 Fort Wayne News (Fort Wayne, Indiana):

 "The Air Ship," a new and original spectacular musical farce comedy, written by J.M. Gaites, possesses some novel and realistic scenic features, and it will probably draw a big audience at the Masonic Temple ton-night. One of the most realistic stage scenes ever presented will be the flight of a real air ship with fifteen passengers on a Klondike expedition, and a view of Dawson City in winter. While the author does not claim a plot, "The Air Ship" has a central idea or theme, with which it is infested by amusing dialogue, new songs, dances and specialties. Careful attention will be given to staging "The Air Ship," and the company of artists engaged will give a lively presentation of the farce.

 I haven't been able to find out much about Mr Gaites, but the posters are divine don't you think?

Deb xx

1890s Cycling Fashions for Men

It is often remarked that men's fashions haven't changed much over the years.  Compared to women's fashions they didn't, but each decade did have it's own specialities, such as breeches or lace and embroidery on waistcoats. In looking at cycling fashions for men, I want to start with a little background at the everyday fashions for men of the 1890's.

The military greatly influence men's (and women) clothing, both in style and colour (red jackets from the late 1700's and khaki in the tropics).  During the 1890's there were still of course wars going on, but the fashion also looked towards the cycling craze of the time, and the overall silhouette of the 1890's was long, lean, and athletic. 

British army piper, private and office c 1890 source

When we think of Victorian fashions for men, apart from military uniforms, we often think of the formal and evening wear - tails and top hats. Dinner jackets or tuxedo's were worn in the evening, and tails only for formal evening events, and of course special race days, with a top hat. White shirts were worn with both, with black or bow ties, although they were again popular as day time accessories during the 90's.  The  Ascot tie was also worn, usually as a day accessory, made up as a neckband with wide wings attached and worn with a stick-pin, and a bowler hat and other soft felt hats or caps were worn during the day.

  

The Hon. Derek William George Keppel  Elegantly dressed Vanity Fair Illustration 1895

 and 

Mr Victor Cavendish, MP for Derbyshire West, wearing top hat. Vanity Fair Illustration 1895

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Although frock coats and the cutaway morning coat was still worn for formal day occasions in Europe and major cities elsewhere, lounge (sack) jackets became popular for day time wear.  These were worn as a suit, either matching three piece affairs with a single breasted jacket, waistcoat and trousers, or with a contrasting waistcoat (vest). Fabric varied, and could be smooth and fine or rougher almost tweed. 

Morning coat and lounge suits c. 1895. source

Perhaps not a realistic cycling outfit of the time?

White Flannel Pants, blazer & Boater - pants rolled up a little at least! 

The blazer was worn for casual activities such as sailing or boating - cut in a similar style to the lounge coat, the fabric was either navy blue or brightly-colored or striped, often in wool flannel,  with patch pockets and brass buttons. These were often worn with light coloured flannel pants, or even shorts, with a straw boater or a cap.

Cycling in a blazer and cap c.1892 source

  

Mr Rudolf Chambers Lehmann, rowing coach,  In flannels and blazer and 

Mr Charles Pittman, rower, in white shorts and sweater.

Tweed jackets (Norfolk jacket) were fashionable to rugged outdoor and winter activities like hunting and shooting.  It featured paired box pleats over the chest and back for greater arm movement, with a fabric belt.  The matching trousers were often replaced with matching breeches (knickerbockers) to make it suitable for suitable for bicycling, and also golf, with knee-length stockings and low shoes, or for hunting with sturdy boots or shoes with leather gaiters. 

Sears Roebuck Catalogue 1897. source

Tourists riding bicycles by A.B. Frost c.1896.

Thomas E. Kent for Bicycle Clothing 1896

Tweed and breeches or plus fours seem to be the most remembered clothing for gentlemen cyclists of this time, as shown by the recent 'tweed ride' or tweed run' phenomena of the last few years. Find out more about this recreation of past cycling tours here.

The poster from the first tweed run 2009

Caps & Breeches, cycling in Norway 1898 source

Cycling c. 1895 source

Many ordinary gents, or those riding to work where breeches would have not been worn, wore their day suits for cycling.  Some would tuck in one leg of there pants into their socks, to avoid it getting caught by the chain, and others would wear bicycle clips.  I can remember my father doing this.

Man and cycle, long trousers and felt cap, c.1895 source

Sear Roebuck Catalogue 1897

This gentleman looks like he did just sell his horse, don't you think!

man and cycle, long trousers, vest and Stetson c 1890s source

Although studio posed, this gent looks ready to go, with his pants tucked partially into his socks, and his tie tucked into his shirt.

Cyclist c .1890s source

French cyclists c 1895  source

There was also specialist sporting clothing for athletes such as swimmers, boxers and speed cyclists, but these were not generally worn by the ordinary man.

Cycling race, 1899 source

c 1890 source

French Olympic cyclists 1896 source

Where the military had influenced fashion, now the bicycle influenced the military.  Cycling squads were formed, and uniforms altered slightly to accommodate cycling soldiers. A look at those next time.

Deb xx

Bicycling 1890's Style for Ladies

Bicycling became almost a cult in the 1890s.  The development of the pneumatic tyre and the mass production of machines meant that cycling was now comfortable and affordable, and as Queen Victoria Herself had purchased tricycles for her daughters (Starley's), it also became acceptable.  As hundreds of young bicycle manufacturers competed for sales, prices dropped from over $100 to as low as $20 for a new cycle, making them in the reach of just about anyone.

True or not?!

The Pope Manufacturing Company in Hartford, Connecticut  had been making bicycles since 1878, and at the height of the bicycle craze in the 1890's, Pope was the city’s largest employer, with 4,000 workers producing 600 bicycles a day.  It is estimated that in 1897 between 1 1/2 and 2 million bicycles were manufactured n the US, and that by 1900 there were about 10 million bicycles in use (from a population of 75 million).

Ladies Cycle Club of Hartford, 1890. 

By 1896 the Raleigh Cycle Company in Nottingham, England was making 30,000 cycles a year in the largest factory in the world, and produced more cycles globally than any other company. I don't think this was considered normal bicycle riding attire, however!

1896 ad source 

The bicycle was considered the freedom machine.  People from all walks of life could afford not only to buy one, but to store it and learn to ride it - a bit different from horse riding. The bicycle was the instrument of social change in many ways, including allowing Victorian women mobility and independence.

"Let me tell you what I think about bicycling. It has done more to emancipate women than anything else in this world. It gives her a feeling of self-reliance and independence the moment she takes her seat; and away she goes, the picture of untrammelled womanhood. I stand and rejoice every time I see a woman on a wheel . . ."

-- Suffragette Susan B. Anthony in a Feb 2, 1896 speech, quoted in the New York World

I love this ad from 1896 - finally a woman's word is taken seriously!

Trust a woman for buying the right thing (finally, we are being taken seriously!)

Although many women still wore their everyday dresses for cycling, special outfits did develop, and the  rational dress movement gained momentum, helping liberate women from corsets and ankle-length skirts. This Punch cartoon illustrates the point that many women enjoyed the freedom of the new fashion.

My Dear Jennie, what on earth is that bicycle suit for.  Why to wear of course.  But you haven't got a bicycle. No, but I've got a sewing machine!

Some outfits kept the look of the longer dress or jacket, but hid bloomers underneath - much like the riding habits of the time. This one is French, circa 1895 (source). Stunning, don't you think?

  

The other popular development in cycling fashion was the bifurcated skirt in about 1892, that was like pants at the back with the modest appearance of a skirt at front. This American suit of wool, linen, leather and silk also includes a pair of gaiters, which would provide protection for the legs. (source)

  

Bloomers and knickerbockers made bicycle riding even easier for women, but the style was still ridiculed by many as being unfeminine and unattractive. These outfits are from about 1895.  What do you think?

  

There was even music written about these intrepid women cyclists (source): 

Oh, the bicycle girl, when she gets on the road, Is bound neck or nothing to go!

  

Myself I love the calf length skirt, and I adore the hats!  So much nicer than today's regulation helmets.

Catalogue. c. 1897

In warm climates, like Australia, a blouse was often worn instead of the jacket, and a sensible straw hat for protection from the sum.

Lady cyclist, Brisbane, Australia c. 1895

An american version in linen -  source

Separate skirts and bloomer continued into the 1900's, such as this wool and linen American pairing (source).

  

Although bloomers did also remain popular, and began to be manufactured by reputable companies, such as this suit (below left) by A.G. Spalding and Bros. from 1902.  It looks remarkably like the charcoal gym suit of a few years earlier by the Columbia Gymnasium Suit, Boston, Mass. (below centre source). 

     

In addition to the cycling outfit, the well-dressed woman also wore leggings or gaiters, a hat, doeskin gloves and perhaps gauntlets, and a pair of the broad, low, rubber-soled cycling shoes which had first come on the marker in 1891. A bicycle belt, from which hung a small leather purse, completed the outfit. 

 cycling outfit c. 1895  source

Those undertaking a bicycling expedition (defined as any trip over an hour in length) were also recommended to outfit their bicycle with a lamp, and to pack matches, tools, a repair kit, sewing materials, and first-aid supplies (and baby?!).

Cycling in Sn Francisco 1890s  source

You'll notice that many of the costumes are sombre colours,  much like the riding habits that had been made by men's tailor's rather than seamstresses. Apparently the stylish women would dress to match her male companion, so grey, brown, dark green, or navy were the most popular colors.

What ever we may think about bloomers, cycling and bicycles really did change the face of fashion - and not just for women.  Men's cycling fashions are next!

Deb xx